Original prusa sl1 3d printer in-depth review

Included in the Box of Prusa SL1S

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

The Prusa SL1S ships with everything you need to start printing, including a 500 gram bottle of Prusa’s Orange Tough resin. Included in the accessories kit is a set of gloves, a funnel with a filter, a cover for the resin vat, a small syringe, some extra FEP film, a pair of scrapers, a bag of Haribo Goldbears (a staple for all Prusa printers), and a validation print to confirm the functionality of the printer. This print is a grid of tiny replicas of Josef Prusa himself, with a total of 120 tiny models that were all printed simultaneously.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

As you would expect from a machine from Prusa, the included documentation is best-in-class and contains detailed diagrams and instructions for getting the printer up and running. Everything from how to unbox the printer to troubleshooting problems is covered in the 68 page user manual, and it should be required reading for any manufacturer currently making 3D printers.

Specifications

Prusa SL1 works using the Masked Stereolithography technique for 3D printing of parts and functional prototypes. The printer carries an LCD and UV LED panel. The supported resins by these printers are UV sensitive liquids having a wavelength of 405 nanometers.

Prusa SL1 supports third-party resins. The 3D printer’s dimensions are 400 mm * 237 mm * 225 mm. And the dimension of the print area of Prusa SL1 is 120 mm * 68 mm * 150 mm. The LCD is 5.5 inches long. Prusa SL1 delivers layer resolution in the range of 0.025 to 0.1 mm.

Users can connect to this printer via USB cable, Wi-fi, LAN, and touchscreen LCD interface. The printer is claimed by its manufacturer to print one layer in six seconds i.e. independent of the layer size.

The CW1: Prusa’s One-Stop Print-Processing Machine

With my handful of successful SL1 test prints, I test-drove the Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine (CW1). As mentioned, it’s available either as part of a bundle with the SL1 or as a standalone unit.

With a resin printer like this, the normal procedure without a washing or curing machine on hand is to remove a printed object from the print bed, dunk it in a bath of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol—also known as IPA, not to be confused with the more frequently acronymed alcohol-based IPA, India Pale Ale—for five or ten minutes, rinse it thoroughly in water, and then set it out to dry. When testing SLA printers, I’ve been known to set recently printed objects on the windowsill on sunny days. SLA-printed objects tend to be a bit tacky and rubbery when first printed, and the sun’s UV radiation helps to cure and harden them. Various devices using UV lights have been marketed for use with SLA printers to aid the curing process, and the Prusa CW1 is a one-stop device for post-processing SLA prints.

The good news is that the CW1 works as promised. It quickly washed and cured the newly printed objects. That said, it costs more than most similar products. (Most cost half as much or less.) We haven’t reviewed any other washing and/or curing machines, so we have nothing with which to compare the CW1’s performance or features, but one downside is the large amount of IPA needed for the washing process.

The CW1 can be used with either Prusa or non-Prusa prints. It comes with two steel containers, either of which holds the IPA in which objects are immersed during the washing process. A magnetically operated disk similar to a propeller sits on the bottom of the tank you are using. During the wash phase, the disk spins, stirring the IPA. The container for non-Prusa prints has a removable mesh basket, sort of like a pasta strainer, in which the printed object(s) is placed during washing; you fill the container with enough IPA to cover the object. For Prusa prints, you can attach the SL1’s build plate, with the printed object still adhering to it, to the bottom of another plate that sits on top of the container.

The catch is that in order to immerse the Prusa print in IPA, you need to fill the container with nearly a gallon of the stuff. In this Covid-stricken age, it’s easy enough to find isopropyl alcohol, even at the minimum 92 percent concentration recommended by Prusa. (I got eight 16-ounce bottles of 99 percent IPA for $5 each.)

As alcohol is a fire hazard, Prusa recommends that between prints you remove the steel container from the CW1 and pour off all the IPA into a sealed container like a gallon water jug. I didn’t go quite that far; between prints, I removed the container full of IPA, and with its lid still on, enclosed it in a plastic bag in a well-ventilated room until I needed it to wash the next print. Only at the end of the day did I pour the IPA back into the plastic bottles whence it came, and the smell from it was overwhelming. I would recommend that even for Prusa prints that users remove the object from the build plate and put it in the basket, where you can get away with using much less IPA.

To complete the drying and curing, you rinse the object in water and place it in the machine, onto a turntable, where it is dried using hot air and cured with UV light. The CW1 does get the job done, although it’s pricey and if you wash an object still attached to the SL1’s printing platform, it may require an excessive amount of rubbing alcohol. You’ll also want a well-ventilated workspace for all the alcohol handling.

Features

When it comes to features, you can see the difference between SLA and FFF 3D printers. SLA will inevitably have a far smaller print platform and build area than FFF, but the print resolution will be far higher. 

Let’s take a look at the main features:

The exposure method or MSLA system uses an LCD screen to display a mask and a UV LED to cure the resin. The LCD is a 5.5-inch with a resolution of 2560x1440p, Quad HD or Wide QHD, and has a fixed XY resolution of 0.047mm (47um).

Each layer takes around 6 seconds to expose whatever the size of the print, as it exposes the entire layer in one go. The UV wavelength is 405nm, and light intensity is cca 990mW/m2.

The ball screw Z-axis, which looks incredibly robust is powered by the Trinamic stepper drivers enabling a minimum layer height of 0.01mm, the motors are also incredibly quiet. Although Prusa Research states the normal workable range for a standard user is between 0.025 and 0.1mm per layer. 

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

The print area of an SLA printer is generally far smaller than that of an FFF printer, and here the SL1 has an area of 120x68x150mm. This might not sound large, but in the SLA world, that’s OK, but is still on the small side. 

Resin can suffer from all sorts of issues; testing any SLA printer will highlight almost everyone in a very short time. Prints sticking to the exposure surface rather than the build platform, cured bits of resin floating around and so the list goes on. 

Various manufacturers have come up with different solutions, and here Prusa has gone for a unique tilting tank.

It’s a decent approach and keeps the resin moving through the print process; it’s also far faster than wiper arms and some other methods employed by other manufacturers. 

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

When it comes to resin levels you add resin by hand before the print, there are no pipes or reservoirs to fill. The level of the resin is measured by a sensor hidden away in the printing platform.

This measures the volume of resin in the tank and ensures that there’s enough resin to complete the job. If the resin is below the required amount, then a warning will appear on the front LCD screen. 

Another stand out feature of the tank is the FEP transparent film on the base. This can be replaced when the film starts to discolour or becomes damaged. 

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

To do this the bolts holding it in place can be removed and a new FEP film can be placed in. The process is easy and takes about 10 minutes to complete.

The SL1 is also not tied to proprietary resins and is compatible with any UV sensitive liquid resin. 

The build platform, as with much of the construction, is solid metal and has a couple of features that aid with easy calibration and print removal. 

A ball joint connects the main arm to the build platform, and this is released for free movement during the step-by-step calibration process. There’s also a release knob on top that enables the build platform to be slipped out once a print is complete. 

For me, one of the most significant issues with SLA printing, aside from dealing with the resin, is the smell. The entire process gives off fumes, but it is possible to attach a hose to the filter assembly and route that in to an extractor.. 

However, there are a few design elements that help with the fume issue. A lid covers the main print area containing some of the fumes and there’s a fan and filter at the back of the machine. It would have been good if the rear extraction fan had the ability to link into an extractor easily.

Sizewise the printer is actually quite small and comfortably fits on most surfaces, even a shelf, and measures in at 400x237x225mm.

A big part of the Original PRUSA SL1 is the software. PrusaSlicer has grown and developed and is now a formidable force. 

The SL1 can communicate with the software in a range of ways, from direct connection to Network, Wi-Fi or USB. 

On the front of the machine is the control panel, and of all 3D printers that I’ve seen this is one of the clearest and easiest to use.

Initial instruction for set-up then calibration are clear and concise, with images to help guide you when needed. 

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

During printing, it shows you the progress and enables you to check settings and make adjustments to options such as exposure easily.

The design of the printer and software is all very clever and slick. 

Smart Features

A full-color LCD touch screen covers the whole device, and the G-codes can be uploaded with the help of a USB flash drive. On the other hand, LAN and Wi-Fi connectivity reactivate the characteristics of the printer.

So you can buy this product but before that, read the specifications, benefits and drawbacks carefully.

Specifications of the Prusa SL1

  • SLA system: LCD and UV LED
  • Supported materials: UV sensitive liquid resin, third-party resins supported.
  • Build Volume: 120 x 68 x 150mm
  • LCD display: 5.5”
  • Recommended layer height: 0.025–0.1 mm (variable layer height available)
  • Minimum layer height: 0.01 mm
  • UV Wavelength: 405nm
  • Resolution: 47um in XY axes.
  • LED Power input: 25W
  • Connectivity: USB, Wi-Fi, LAN, Touchscreen LCD controls.
  • Speed: 6 seconds per layer, independent of layer size.

Benefits of the Prusa SL1

  • Print quality comes out with an hassle free experience
  • It has durable metallic body. You can use this printer continually for a long time
  •  Cheap in price and excellent printing quality attracts every customer to buy this printer
  •  Long-lasting parts (screws, knobs, etc.)
  • Calibration of this printer is well balanced
  • User-friendly mobile apps encourage customer like you to buy this printer

Downsides

  • Lack of information or data in the manual may disappoint you in handling this printer
  • Disturbance in the control screen may irritate you
  • Lack of proper guidance and instructions may be a problem for you for cleaning or post-processing
  • Online guidance may require for further compilation
  • The Printing quality of Prusa SL1 Resin Printer often decorates, which may create a negative effect in front of you.

Customer Reviews of the Prusa SL1

When you think about buying a product, you must remember that in any product there are benefits and drawbacks, which may change your thoughts. A product may be proficient or appropriate for one person but serve as an inappropriate shot for other people.

So before buying any product (3D printers), you must give special attention to features, characteristics and specifications, which will guide you through buying a product with your special sincerity, necessity, availability and with your best suitability.

One user who bought the Original Prusa SL1 welcomed it as a real plug-and-play 3D printer. SL1 with all its quality provides you high quality printing. Yes, it has some drawbacks but the upgraded quality surely outperforms the downsides.

Another user who bought and accustomed with the Prusa SL1 3D Printer, used it for a long time and still have a stunning experience. Initial calibration and easy setup of printers are very simple to configure.

It radiates, shines with high resolution for better operations and execution. The user also mentioned that the 24/7 tech support team with their friendly and responsive attitude assisted him to repair his printer within a week.

I think you should buy this printer without a second thought. This is awesome in this price range.

Final Verdict

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer comes with MSLA process. This printer is well decorated with a bright and high-resolution LCD panel and a UV LED panel to supervise the printing quality, for better prints. This is very helpful and ideal for you if you are a jeweller or high-end modeller.

Extraordinary features equipped with the original Prusa SL1 provides you positive vibes for easy, customized, handy installation and optimization, which will guide you to enrich your intuition and ignite the mind in the world of 3D printing.

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer is well concerned with more characteristics than other printers. This printer is cheap, pocket friendly and much more economical than other conventional printers are.

Excellent quality of good prints with the transcendental flow of inspirations may encourage you to buy it and to use it properly.

The confluence effect of hardware or software is conforming together to make a proper, user-friendly, conspicuous device (3D printer). The 5.5-inch LCD screen with hassle-free operating switches may assure a favourable blessing for your professional career.

Higher solidarity of a robust metal frame decreases the vibrations. Thus I think, if you buy and experience this product, you will give a positive assurance for better simulation and for best results.

Washing and Curing Models with Prusa CW1S

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

Most of the mess typically associated with resin printing occurs in the post-processing stage, where the printed model needs to be removed from the printer, rinsed of excess resin, washed in a solvent bath to remove uncured resin, and fully polymerized in a curing chamber. This process involves multiple steps and typically requires several other machines to accomplish.

To make this an easier process for the user, Prusa has designed the Prusa CW1S, an optional accessory for the machine that combines these steps (and more) into a single unit capable of reducing the amount of time spent post-processing resin parts. Retailing for $749, this is not a cheap accessory; it costs a lot more than some other resin printers such as the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. If you are interested in a fast workflow with a reliable machine, it’s worth investigating the CW1S to understand the benefits it can bring to your workflow.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

To understand how the CW1S works, I’ll walk you through a typical workflow process for finishing a resin print. The build platform on the SL1S is easy to remove from the machine, and the tapered edges allow resin to flow off making the clean-up easy, so carefully removing the platform from the bracket can be done without spilling a single drop of resin. I usually let it sit for a while after printing to allow the model to drip-dry.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

After removing the build platform, the next step is removing the part. This is typically done with the sharp metal scraper included with the printer, and can be accomplished by finding a corner, or edge, and lightly separating the model from the platform. It’s possible some resin that is stuck to the model might drip off, so you’ll want to lay down a silicone mat or other easy-to-clean surface under the platform.

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

The CW1S includes a metal vat with a wire mesh basket that is used to rinse the excess resin from the part. Underneath the vat is a spinning magnetic platform that propels a plastic agitator at the bottom of the vat. This agitator creates a vortex of solvent which actively rinses excess resin from the model. For models like this tower, there are lots of small windows that can have resin stuck to them due to the surface tension of the material. By vigorously rinsing the model, this excess resin is cleared from all areas of the model.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

The screen on the front of the CW1S includes an interface that automatically walks the user through the steps of post-processing. Once the washing phase is finished, I remove the part from the tub and allow it to air dry before putting it back in the CW1S. One of the unique features of the CW1S is the ‘Drying’ phase, which blows hot air over the model to speed up the evaporation of any trapped or stuck solvent.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

The interface will prompt you to start the drying phase, and automatically begins the curing phase once it’s finished. The UV-resistant lid of the CW1S means the only light leakage is on the sides of the machine, through which a slightly purple glow can be seen. Once the UV curing phase is complete the model is fully polymerized and the post-processing phase is complete.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

Once the processing is finished, we can take a look at the model to get a better idea of what we have accomplished through these steps. The fine lattice structure of this model is readily visible with no filled cells or holes, and there is no excess resin on the edges of the model. The beams on this model measure 0.4mm, and there is no warping, deformation, or incomplete areas on the model. Printing a model with this much detail is an accomplishment on its own, but the extra detail that is brought out in the post-processing phase helps highlight the value of a post-processing machine like the CW1S.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

Design

The Original Prusa SL1 is one of those devices that has an instant magnetic appeal. As soon as someone walks into the workshop, they’re checking out the slender black and orange box. 

Aesthetically it looks the business, large transparent orange door that flips open to reveal the build plate and resin tank. 

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

On the base is a large LCD touch screen that enables you to navigate settings quickly. There’s nothing here that looks openly Open-Source, this feels like a proper commercial product. 

That quality and precision sum up the design and build of the SL1, it’s solid and needs to be to produce SLA prints, as unlike FFF printing there’s very little margin for error. 

From the UV protective orange door to the industrial lead screw, solid metal tank and build plate, the SL1 instantly feels one up on many other SLA printers that I’ve looked at.

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

Take a closer look, and you can see those small hints that this printer has it’s feet firmly based in the world of Open-Source. The fixing knob on the build plate is 3D printed.

There are a few other 3D printed parts on the machine such as the covercheck cover, blower fan duct and touchscreen frame, a little nod to the Open-Source community, and just letting you know you could build it if you wanted.

Interestingly the 3D printed part is printed with an FFF printer rather than SLA. The only reasons I can think of for this is that it’s cheaper to produce and if printed by the SL1 you may not realise that the part was 3D printed. 

One aspect of the SL1 that instantly stands out is size and weight. This is by no means a large machine, and the small footprint is ideal for location in a workshop. 

Although the printer is compact, it has a good weight to it, and a stable surface or table is the best option. Although in operation, the printer is quiet and doesn’t vibrate or wobble in the same was as an FFF printer.

Unlike FFF printers, no material option enables you to use this printer in a small confined space without the fumes getting to you. By the very nature of SLA printing, it is more industrial, and a decent workshop is the best option or at the very least a very well vented room. Thanks to the filter assembly you are able to attach a hose and direct all the fumes to outer space.

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

Connectivity can be a real 3D printing headache, but here Prusa Research has opted for every type of connection going, Wi-Fi, Network and USB. 

(Image credit: Ali Jennings)

Ease of use has been carefully considered and opening the door; you can see that the build plate is easily removable once the print has finished. 

This feature is vital due to the finishing process that’s required with SLA prints. 

Then there’s the bolt in tank, the tank itself is solid and made to last, but the perishable film base that will inevitably degrade over time is replaceable. 

There’s a lot to be said for the design ethics of Prusa Research making sure that these parts are serviceable. 

Unboxing and Box Contents

The Prusa SL1 ships in a sturdy box and is protected by dense foam packing. Prusa includes a few things inside the main printer box too. First, you will get 500 ml of resin so that you can commence printing right away. There is also a metal and plastic scraper in there, some Allen keys, screws, and a resin strainer.

Prusa also gives you a 16 GB USB stick, some cutters, and gloves to protect your hands against the resin. Keep your eyes open for some FEP foil, too, a 3D printing handbook, and a power cord. And just like with all other Prusa printers, you will also get a free pack of Haribo bear gums to enjoy as you set up the printer!  

Testing and Troubleshooting

In testing the SL1, I became all too familiar with the device’s calibration routine, as well as with resin-tank draining, cleaning, alignment, and FEP film replacement. The removal and cleaning of the build platform was also a frequent activity. Unfortunately, except on my very first day of testing—when I printed two of Prusa’s included test files—all that came of it was a string of misprints in which the object would not adhere to the print platform and its first layers would end up stuck to the film at the bottom of the tank.

After my two successful prints, I tried printing an object I had sliced using the PrusaSlicer software (the ever-popular 3DBenchy), but the print failed. I wasn’t sure if I had made poor choices in preparing the object for slicing (in its orientation or supports), or if the resin-tank film had been too dirty. So I cleaned the latter and went back to using Prusa’s sample files. But I suffered misprints with those, as well.

I then availed myself of numerous prospective fixes—both from the company and from other users—found in Prusa’s Help resources. The Prusa Research website includes a huge knowledge base in which users report problems they have encountered, and other users and Prusa staff provide suggestions and/or solutions, as well as articles on specific problems. I located a Prusa article on troubleshooting when the first layer of a print doesn’t stick to the build plate, as well as several threads on the subject.

Between the articles and threads, the suggestions were largely the same:

  • Recalibrate the printer.

  • Pour the resin out of the tank, remove any resin that may be stuck to the bottom, clean the tank and the FEP film at its bottom thoroughly (with warm water and dishwashing detergent), and dry it with paper towels.

  • Make sure that the object is sliced correctly in PrusaSlicer and that the first-layer exposure time is long enough.

  • Check that the LCD is working.

I did all of these steps, most of them multiple times, and launched many test prints, without success.

A few observations, though. Despite FEP’s reputation as a non-stick polymer, bits of resin and other gunk still adhered to it and were often difficult to remove. (Hint: Always wear gloves when handling the tank, because the film is a fingerprint magnet.) The print’s first layers often ended up on the bottom of the tank, and they at least could be pried up, either with a finger or the included plastic scraper.

Getting the FEP film, though, even reasonably clean of resin and other debris proved challenging and time-consuming. I ended up twice replacing the sheet of film with spare sheets that came with the printer. (Additional packets of three sheets are available for $14.99.) And that replacement process is no fun at all: It involves unscrewing 22 screws with an Allen wrench, removing a metal plate, discarding the old film, putting the new film and the plate into place, and then screwing the film’s edges down.

I did not have these resin-tank headaches with the two SLA printers I most recently reviewed. The XYZprinting Nobel 1.0 and Formlabs Form 2 both have automatic resin-feeding systems, which replenish your tank when it senses the resin is running low. In neither case was there a case of resin prematurely hardening (in which case loose resin chunks have to be fished out of the tank), unlike the Form 2’s predecessor, the Formlabs Form 1+.

Printing Safety with Prusa SL1S

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

The Prusa SL1S uses 405nm UV resin, a material that you need to handle safely when in an uncured state to avoid injury. The resin can be harmful when making contact with skin, so make sure to wear gloves when pouring, cleaning up, or handling uncured resin. I also make sure I’m wearing gloves when removing the build platform after a print, as the resin tends to pool on top of the platform and can drip off while the platform is being removed.

Make sure you use the SL1S in a well-ventilated room to minimize the danger from inhaling fumes. Any spills or uncured resin stuck to a surface should be cleaned using 99% isopropyl alcohol and the container for the resin should be kept closed and secured when not actively pouring material.

Printing a Model from prusaprinters.org

(Image credit: prusaprinter.org)

Prusa has created an online file repository called ‘PrusaPrinters’ that encourages users to upload both 3D models as well as prepared 3D files that are ready for printing. As an example of this is the ‘Wardragon’ model, which is available as a ‘.sl1s’ file format that is readily printable by the Prusa SL1S without any additional software. This type of file sharing allows users to download models that they can print without having to worry about going through the slicing process.

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

I downloaded the wardragon.sl1s file and printed it using Prusa Tough Orange material without making any modifications to either the settings or the printer.

(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

The Wardragon model printed without any issues, and it really was as simple as downloading the .sl1s file, putting it on a thumb drive, plugging it into the printer, and hitting ‘start’. The model printed in 3 hours and 1 minute, an improvement over the estimated time on the site of 3 hours and 29 minutes. I’m used to slicer apps providing ‘optimistic’ print times which are usually 20-50% short of the actual print time, so having a printer finish before the estimated time was a pleasant surprise.

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

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(Image credit: Tom’s Hardware)

After removing the part from the build platform of the machine, I post-processed the model using the Prusa CW1S to clean up the excess resin and fully cure the part. The detail on the model is striking, with individual rings visible on the reins of the dragon and the textured skin of the model looking sharp and lifelike. I was most impressed with the chainmail rings hanging underneath the armor; they appear to almost float in air and the level of detail is far past what I would have expected from a 2K masking LCD screen.

Parameters Influencing Buying Decision

Let’s look at the cost, quality, speed, capability, and practicality, and user expectation of this printer in a brief to let you judge the printer very shortly.

3D Printer Cost: Small businesses have complained about the printer’s cost is higher than what they can afford. But, professionals are very satisfied with the quality of print that Prusa SL1 provides.

3D Printer Quality: Quality of the parts and functional prototypes produced by this printer is far more superior to the printer’s falling the same price range.

3D Print Speed: Industry Standard.

3D Printer Capability: Prusa SL1 can print with third party filament, also the printer is open-sourced.

3D Printer Practicality: The amazing features that this printer has, its ability to print more accurately than even SLA printers, makes SL1 as one of the most practical printers for applications that demand more accuracy.

3D User Expectations: Prusa SL1 can be used to make parts and functional prototypes in industries like aerospace, jewelry, medical, etc.

First Impression

Being black and orange, Prusa SL1 has got what it takes to catch one’s eye at the very first sight. Not only you want to look at it if it’s present on the table with 10 other boxes, but also you want to go in search of something like this.

Prusa SL1 has a large transparent orange door that flips open as if revealing the build plate and resin tank. On the base of the printer is the large LCD touch screen (probably the largest one in this price range.) The fact that it is large let’s navigate through it very quickly.

Every part of SL1, be it the UV protective door, or the lead screw, the solid metal tank, or the build plate, has something or the other to attract you. Which makes you easily land upon the decision that the manufacturer must be given extra credits for making this eye-catchy 3D printer.

The printer is not that big it can be categorized into the list of compact desktop printers, it has a good weight to itself.

The user’s ease has been primarily considered by the manufacturer. You can see this is in the door’s opening, the easily removable build plate, and the solid tank which makes itself last longer compared to the perishable film bases.

One can go on writing about how impressive is Prusa SL1’s first impression, but then we have other sections to write about as well. So, let’s move on.

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Features

The Prusa SL1 is also loaded with some unique, high-quality features designed to deliver outstanding resin 3D prints. I have listed some of them here below for you:

  • The SL1 features a robust and rigid aluminum construction thanks to its durable frame and independent body. This strong build enhances stability and reliability.
  • The unit is also fitted with a motorized tilt function on the resin tank, enhancing overall print quality and print speed. The tilt function also helps to ease the shifting of large layers.
  • The Prusa SL1 also offers high-speed printing. Its high-performance UV light cures each layer at a time, taking less than six seconds to cure each layer. This makes the unit one of the fastest SLA printers in the market.
  • The printer also comes with a high resolution 5.5 inch LCD display for easy control.
  • The SL1 delivers outstanding print quality. The unit is fitted with innovative Trinamic drivers, a strong frame, and a layer height that can hit up to 0.01 mm. All these factors are crucial in delivering impeccably printed objects.
  • The printer also features a removable resin tank. The tank is fitted with a flexible transparent FEP film, an add-on that enhances ease of use. The FEP film is also available at Prusa’s eShop for a very low price in case you need to replace it.
  • This unit also offers automatic calibration. Besides, you don’t need to calibrate it every time you print. The entire process is done automatically. This is a great feature for beginners who are looking for a simple to use a non-fussy printer.
  • The Prusa SL1 also has a unique resin level sensor neatly located on the resin tank. The sensor helps you pour just the right amount of resin in the tank and it will notify you when resin levels are running low to reduce wastage.
  • The unit also offers several connectivity options, including USB and Wi-Fi. You can also connect via Local Area Network using an Ethernet cable.
  • The Prusa SL1 is a quiet unit, too, thanks to its innovative auto-homing function and Trinamic drivers.

Software

If you have used Prusa Slicer 1.0, you’d notice the change in the user interface that Prusa 2.0 has. The limitations and complaints of the Prusa Slicer 1.0 user interface not being accessible and user-friendly are very well taken care of by the manufacturer.

In Prusa Slicer 1.0, the manufacturers had already made ways to accommodate SLA techniques, so with Prusa 2.0, it was the challenge to manage the masked SLA technique’s tool in the software.

There is this model context menu that lets you generate support blockers and enforcers. You will use the Support blockers when you’re overall fine with the automatic supports. Moreover, you are looking to exclude some areas that don’t need supports.

The new PrusaSlicer supports material and printer settings for various resins as this printer allows the option to print with third-party filaments.

Although, PrusaSlicer does not feature 3D model hollowing. So, you’d have to fall back on programs such as MeshMixer or Windows 3DBuilder. But the company has announced how it is looking to implement this feature soon.

Another thing that can be said as an inaccuracy by Prusa is the print time estimation for the SL1 printer. The average time calculation is always more than the actual print time by half an hour at least.

Overall, PrusaSlicer is a great tool that fulfills almost all the requirements that are needed for SLA printing.

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